Surfing! You've either done it or you haven't. There's something about paddling out past where the waves break, waiting for that opportune moment to kick, paddle and pop-up that separates us from the tourists, or at least those who live in qthe suburbs!
After a fantastic day with my church doing fellowship, I decided to go to Folly (it seems to be the only place aside from Whiting, Indiana's 121st St that relaxes me when memories of Iraq are too overwhelming). Anyway, I spent an hour walking the beach, talking to strangers and just taking in the sights, sounds and salty marsh scent.
As I took this in, I was inundated with memories from my childhood and was able to see how much of a success I've become over the years. I survived Iraq, physically. I survived a horrible relationship with someone I thought I knew and I graduated college with more TRUE friends than I could count.
So what does this have to do with surfing, you may ask ...a lot! When you're surfing, you need to move in the present, you either get on top of the wave or you eat foam, I've been consistently riding waves since the fall fall of 2009 despite a bunch of really bad sets!
No comments:
Post a Comment